Island Hopping
20th July 2023
Walking the North Skye Coast – Section 1 (Gesto Bay to MacLeod's Maidens)
It was never my original intention to turn this into a walking or photography project. For almost as long as I can remember, parts of this coastline have been an integral part of my life. As a youngster growing up in Dunvegan in North West Skye, it was hard to avoid this part of the coast. We went fishing to Neist and Ramasaig, picked whelks at Skinidin and I recall at least once going with the family to Oisgill Bay so that my Gran could collect Carrageen (a kind of seaweed used to make what I always thought was an unappetising gelatinous pudding!).
As an adult I had walked round the south Duirinish coastline, out to Waternish & Greshornish points, latterly with a camera in hand, hoping to capture some moody wave and weather action, so I had notched up a fair few miles when I hit on the idea of covering the entire coastline as set out on my trusty Ordnance Survey Landranger 23 map. This runs from a non-specified point on Loch Harport, northwest up the Bracadale shores up to Roskhill and then to Idrigill on the South Westerly edge of the map. It the runs northwest again over the uninhabited lands of south Duirinish, along what Ralph Storer describes as the finest cliff top walk in the British Isles;awesome and breathtaking. From the clearance township of Lorgill over the stunning vantage point of Waterstein Head, around the tourist honeypot of Neist Point past Oisgill Bay and finishing up at the Old Watermill in Glendale.
As this section represents something in excess of 65kms of rough (mostly trackless) walking, I'm going to take you on a visual journey split into a number of smaller sections - many which can be done over several shorter walks -all of which give a grand sense of space and remoteness.
The journey begins on the edge of Harport, roughly at Gesto Bay, and up and west of the village of Struan (insert struan reflections image) towards Uillinish Point, where you can walk across to the tidal island of Oronsay across a nice causeway of rounded stones. (insert causeway image) The most usual route is from minor road end near Uillinish, a mere kilometre over a muddy path, or a gentle four kilometre hike from Struan Jetty to Uilllinish Point. Once across to the island (having checked tide times beforehand of course), you can make a pleasant circuit of the island, taking in the views of the other islands in Loch Bracadale and the distant hills, Healabhal Mhor & Healabhal Bheag (MacLeod's Tables) away to the NW. and the Bracadale cliffs SW.
Heading back to Uillinish, the coast heads past the townships of Eabost (insert shore from Eabost image) and Ose, (insert storm on lochcaroy image) changing direction in a southerly route towards Harlosh Point. It's a fairly unfrequented spot that has a couple of caves and a rock stack, and is a good stopping point on a coastal trek to capture some images. (insert harlosh point colour image).
The eagle eyed amongst you will have have noticed that my images range from flat calm sunnylochs to storm lashed rocks. That's Skye for you. Potentially four seasons in one day. You have been warned!
From there, it's back north towards Roskhill, and then another abrupt turn south past Roag and the 'nearly island' of Ardroag, where I stopped to make some images (insert ardroag image). You'll note that this peninsula with the narrow neck has an actual tidal island attached to it, at least part of the day, and you might want an easy stroll out to it. The next short section from the cliffs at Greepe down to Loch Bharcasaig is pleasantly wild and unfrequented, with the clifftop headland of Meall Greepa provided unparalleled views down the islands and peninsulas of Loch Bracadale. (insert meall greepa better image) A great lunch spot, as long as the wind isn't too strong, as it's quite an exposed spot., and there is no fence separating you and the cliff edge. From there it's an amble down to Bharcasaig following the line of the cliffs, again taking care with your footing. (insert greep to bharcasaig image) I think that many years of walking the mountains in Scotland has made me confident, but always aware of the dangers of cliff and coastal walking in Skye. The golden rule is, if you don't feel confident, then don't do it! It also goes without saying that proper boots, warm & waterproof clothing and food are an essential, even on a short coastal walk.. A map and compass are always a good idea. In fact, for certain certain sections, such as the South Duirinish cliffs, you should prepare as if for a day in the mountains as the weather, and terrain can be challenging, and in poor visibility, navigation can be difficult.
From the shores of Loch Bharcasaig, (insert bhracasaig bay to meall greepa image) there is a track and path all the way south to Idrigill Point, and the famous rock stacks of MacLeod's Maidens. I've done this particular walk several times, and each time I do it I have a great sense of optimism at the start, quickly eroded by a muddy path and a lack of clear views, but always finishing with a sense of awe as you emerge once again on the cliffs.
The first point of interest (for ageing music fans!) is the plantation known as 'Rebels Wood', planted by the Joe Strummer Foundation, in memory of the Clash frontman's commitment to Carbon Neutral citizenship. Perhaps it's not the first thing you'd think of finding on a Hebridean island, but Joe's grandparents came from the neighbouring island of Raasay, and I believe that he'd always wanted to make the pilgrimage back before he passed away. The path undulates through grassy moorland and small birchwood ( a haven for midges, if I recall) the inlet of Loch Brandersaig, which is worth a slippery detour down to explore is cave and shores. From there it's uphill to the ruined clearance village of Idrigill which has an interesting history, and slightly further on, if you wanted to leave the path to the small promontory of Ard Beag, there are some amazing views of natural arches, hidden from main path.
From here it's a short hop to Idrigill Point & the Maidens. If you are doing this part as a one off walk, most of the guides recommend walking a further kilometre or so to the other side of the bay known as Inbhir a' Gharraidh, where you will get the best view of the rock tacks. The general consensus is that they resemble Queen Victoria and her offspring, and it's hard to disagree with that view! If you are a photographer, try and get there when the light is falling onto the adjacent cliff. I've always failed with that, and as a result, I've been left with images that are not as good as they should be. It's certainly a challenge for the photographer! (insert maidens image)
So, that is a very brief overview of the first section of the North Skye walk. Hopefully it's enough to give a flavour of some of Britain's best coastline which might encourage you to explore it for yourself. From here, you can choose to head back, or follow my on one of the most exciting sections of this adventure...........
It was never my original intention to turn this into a walking or photography project. For almost as long as I can remember, parts of this coastline have been an integral part of my life. As a youngster growing up in Dunvegan in North West Skye, it was hard to avoid this part of the coast. We went fishing to Neist and Ramasaig, picked whelks at Skinidin and I recall at least once going with the family to Oisgill Bay so that my Gran could collect Carrageen (a kind of seaweed used to make what I always thought was an unappetising gelatinous pudding!).
As an adult I had walked round the south Duirinish coastline, out to Waternish & Greshornish points, latterly with a camera in hand, hoping to capture some moody wave and weather action, so I had notched up a fair few miles when I hit on the idea of covering the entire coastline as set out on my trusty Ordnance Survey Landranger 23 map. This runs from a non-specified point on Loch Harport, northwest up the Bracadale shores up to Roskhill and then to Idrigill on the South Westerly edge of the map. It the runs northwest again over the uninhabited lands of south Duirinish, along what Ralph Storer describes as the finest cliff top walk in the British Isles;awesome and breathtaking. From the clearance township of Lorgill over the stunning vantage point of Waterstein Head, around the tourist honeypot of Neist Point past Oisgill Bay and finishing up at the Old Watermill in Glendale.
As this section represents something in excess of 65kms of rough (mostly trackless) walking, I'm going to take you on a visual journey split into a number of smaller sections - many which can be done over several shorter walks -all of which give a grand sense of space and remoteness.
The journey begins on the edge of Harport, roughly at Gesto Bay, and up and west of the village of Struan (insert struan reflections image) towards Uillinish Point, where you can walk across to the tidal island of Oronsay across a nice causeway of rounded stones. (insert causeway image) The most usual route is from minor road end near Uillinish, a mere kilometre over a muddy path, or a gentle four kilometre hike from Struan Jetty to Uilllinish Point. Once across to the island (having checked tide times beforehand of course), you can make a pleasant circuit of the island, taking in the views of the other islands in Loch Bracadale and the distant hills, Healabhal Mhor & Healabhal Bheag (MacLeod's Tables) away to the NW. and the Bracadale cliffs SW.
Heading back to Uillinish, the coast heads past the townships of Eabost (insert shore from Eabost image) and Ose, (insert storm on lochcaroy image) changing direction in a southerly route towards Harlosh Point. It's a fairly unfrequented spot that has a couple of caves and a rock stack, and is a good stopping point on a coastal trek to capture some images. (insert harlosh point colour image).
The eagle eyed amongst you will have have noticed that my images range from flat calm sunnylochs to storm lashed rocks. That's Skye for you. Potentially four seasons in one day. You have been warned!
From there, it's back north towards Roskhill, and then another abrupt turn south past Roag and the 'nearly island' of Ardroag, where I stopped to make some images (insert ardroag image). You'll note that this peninsula with the narrow neck has an actual tidal island attached to it, at least part of the day, and you might want an easy stroll out to it. The next short section from the cliffs at Greepe down to Loch Bharcasaig is pleasantly wild and unfrequented, with the clifftop headland of Meall Greepa provided unparalleled views down the islands and peninsulas of Loch Bracadale. (insert meall greepa better image) A great lunch spot, as long as the wind isn't too strong, as it's quite an exposed spot., and there is no fence separating you and the cliff edge. From there it's an amble down to Bharcasaig following the line of the cliffs, again taking care with your footing. (insert greep to bharcasaig image) I think that many years of walking the mountains in Scotland has made me confident, but always aware of the dangers of cliff and coastal walking in Skye. The golden rule is, if you don't feel confident, then don't do it! It also goes without saying that proper boots, warm & waterproof clothing and food are an essential, even on a short coastal walk.. A map and compass are always a good idea. In fact, for certain certain sections, such as the South Duirinish cliffs, you should prepare as if for a day in the mountains as the weather, and terrain can be challenging, and in poor visibility, navigation can be difficult.
From the shores of Loch Bharcasaig, (insert bhracasaig bay to meall greepa image) there is a track and path all the way south to Idrigill Point, and the famous rock stacks of MacLeod's Maidens. I've done this particular walk several times, and each time I do it I have a great sense of optimism at the start, quickly eroded by a muddy path and a lack of clear views, but always finishing with a sense of awe as you emerge once again on the cliffs.
The first point of interest (for ageing music fans!) is the plantation known as 'Rebels Wood', planted by the Joe Strummer Foundation, in memory of the Clash frontman's commitment to Carbon Neutral citizenship. Perhaps it's not the first thing you'd think of finding on a Hebridean island, but Joe's grandparents came from the neighbouring island of Raasay, and I believe that he'd always wanted to make the pilgrimage back before he passed away. The path undulates through grassy moorland and small birchwood ( a haven for midges, if I recall) the inlet of Loch Brandersaig, which is worth a slippery detour down to explore is cave and shores. From there it's uphill to the ruined clearance village of Idrigill which has an interesting history, and slightly further on, if you wanted to leave the path to the small promontory of Ard Beag, there are some amazing views of natural arches, hidden from main path.
From here it's a short hop to Idrigill Point & the Maidens. If you are doing this part as a one off walk, most of the guides recommend walking a further kilometre or so to the other side of the bay known as Inbhir a' Gharraidh, where you will get the best view of the rock tacks. The general consensus is that they resemble Queen Victoria and her offspring, and it's hard to disagree with that view! If you are a photographer, try and get there when the light is falling onto the adjacent cliff. I've always failed with that, and as a result, I've been left with images that are not as good as they should be. It's certainly a challenge for the photographer! (insert maidens image)
So, that is a very brief overview of the first section of the North Skye walk. Hopefully it's enough to give a flavour of some of Britain's best coastline which might encourage you to explore it for yourself. From here, you can choose to head back, or follow my on one of the most exciting sections of this adventure...........